INDEX |
|
| July 26-31 | August 9 |
| August 1 | August 10 |
| August 2 | August 11 |
| August 3 | August 12 |
| August 4 | August 13 |
| August 5 | August 14 |
| August 6 | August 15 |
| August 7 | August 16-18 |
| August 8 | August 19-20 |
INDEX |
|
| July 26-31 | August 9 |
| August 1 | August 10 |
| August 2 | August 11 |
| August 3 | August 12 |
| August 4 | August 13 |
| August 5 | August 14 |
| August 6 | August 15 |
| August 7 | August 16-18 |
| August 8 | August 19-20 |
These are notes I took as I was traveling along. They are not complete, edited texts, but more like a log book you might write about a trip or adventure. They are raw observations I made as we went along. Things I felt, saw, or heard as we bumped across the deserted emptiness I so adore. I hope they will give you the feeling I experienced as we made our journey.
-Joe
We departed Madrid at 1:00 pm and went in the direction of the Mediterranean ocean on highway E-5 south toward Cordoba. We stopped to top-off all of the gas tanks after only 60 km. and it seems the small Peugeot is having a slight electrical problem.
At odometer reading 204190 we took E-902 toward Grenada where we pick up two more people (Cristina and Antonio) to make a total of 11 of us. After arriving in Grenada and picking up Cristina and Antonio we got on the A-92 towards Seville. It is 8:30 p.m. before we are back on the road and I am very hot, dirty and tired. After about one hour we got off A-92 and onto A-359 towards Malaga. At Midnight we stopped in Manilva at a camping area. Manuel didn’t have a tent or camping gear – he didn’t know we were camping, so I offered my tent to him. We were “tent-mates” for the rest of the trip.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: How Southern Spain looked so much like the California farm valley. The very long drive to the Mediterranean.
We left the camp at 9:00am on highway E-15 to take a ferry to Morocco from Algeciras. By 11:10am we are at the port waiting for the ferry and got our departure time for 12:15 pm. When we pulled into the loading area we hit the valve of the tire on the curb and had to change the tire. At 12:17 pm we pulled away from the dock in Algeciras and the trip on the ferry took about 35 minutes. We had some beer and snacks while crossing.
By 1:00 pm we were in Africa, Ceuta, but still Spain, as this northern part of Africa is part of Spain. We stopped to get gas and some people in the group needed to get groceries so we went to a supermarket, and then went 3km to the Moroccan boarder. At 2:40, after 2 hours and 20minutes, we got through the boarder! It was controlled chaos. Morocco is 2 hours earlier than Spain so it is only 3:00 pm local time. The odometer reading is 204569.
At 4 we stopped at an interesting restaurant to eat near Lerache. We ordered kabobs, salad and fries as a group. The food was pretty good and we all ate plenty. After the meal we had a tea that is a specialty of Morocco - mint tea with a lot of mint leaves and stalks stuffed into the glass with boiling sugar water pored into the glass over the mint. I tried it but it was too sweet for me.
We traveled just past Kénitra and got a camping spot at 10:00pm. (Mehdya-Plage) I went to bed at midnight listening to Moroccan music playing next door. Little did we know it was going to play until dawn. The odometer read 204824. Not as far as we wanted to go - but that’s AFRICA!
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Sand, desert plants, and co-ed "baths". Stand/squat toilets. The Gibraltar Rock. The ferry crossing the straight of Gibraltar. The length of time it took to go through the boarder. The Moroccan mint tea.
We got up at 7:30 ate, broke camp and were on the road by 10:30am.
As we traveled we saw women on the side of the road holding up fruits and vegetables to buy. There were also numerous shepherds with goats and sheep and a lot of poor people begging. Police, be they national or local, were abundant. The land was fairly desolate and a few large farms were scattered amongst the arid area. The main mode of transportation for the workers and produce were mule pulled carts and mules being ridden.
At odometer 204824we went through Rabat, which is the capital of Morocco. We saw McDonalds fast food chains everywhere! It was 11:15 am as we stopped for gas in Bouzouki and had coffee so I took a few pictures.
We stopped at 2:30 for lunch - we just pulled off the road and went into a field by some trees – the odometer read 205035. By 3:40 we were back on the road and traveled to Tnine-Rhiate. We got there at about 6:00 and had refreshments for 30 minutes – the odometer read 205190.
We got to Essaouira at 8:30pm – the odometer was at 205320. It was very windy at the camping area so we had to use stones and sand to hold the tents in place. I feel a definite head cold coming on. After we set up the tents we got warmer clothes on, as it is fairly cool out. I am not feeling that well so I am taking colloidal silver to try and avert the cold. We ate a restaurant in the old town marketplace and got back to the campgrounds at midnight, showered with cold water and went to bed at 1:00am.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Cork trees. Views of the Atlantic Ocean on the right. A donkey pulling water up from a well. Satellite dishes on all rooftops! Garbage everywhere. Meat hanging in the open air. Rock found eating lunch. Buy a baquette for about 10 cents and a soda for about 20 cents!
Got up at 6:00am and the sun was just coming up and I went for a walk to the market area. Jose is going to get the truck tire and car-alternator fixed so we won't leave until after lunch I walked through the old non-tourist area and watched people start the day - very interesting.
There is a fish market and Manuel and I walked around the whole old town in the non-tourist area in the late morning – early afternoon. When we met as a group it was 1:00 pm and we ate at the open-air fish market. I had lobster - still alive when I picked it out off a large platter of seafood. The man tried charging me more than double. Rafa (Raffeal) talked the man to 80.
After lunch we departed for Tiznit – the “city of walls”, and the odometer read 205320 , We went through Agadir and Idtiar got sick along the way (the name is Basque and her and her husband Iñaki are from there.). We think it was some coffee she had from a cafe made from bad water.
We got to Tiznit at 8:30 and drove to Aglou plage to camp on the cliffs of the beach. No facilities, but it was fantastic!
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Camels, fish market vendors trying to get you to eat their goods, the wharf with eels, octopus, crabs, shrimp, urchins, conch shells, live mussels and a variety of fish. Going to Hotel Sofitel and having breakfast. Sharing a moment with the hostess at the hotel about both of us having a cold. Rafa on his cell phone at night. Cristina giving the little kids suckers. The incredible scenery on the road. The beautiful abundance of stars at night, the sound of the waves and the peaceful serenity of a quiet night.
On the road at 8:45am. We stopped in Tiznit on the way back to the main road and spent 30 minutes in the walled market. Left Tiznitat 9:30am. Today we get to the start of the Sahara! We stopped for lunch at 1:00pm in the middle of nowhere, the odometer is at 205758. By 1:45pm we are back on the road and arrived in Laáyoune late –9:30pm as we stopped several times to take pictures. We stopped at a restaurant before getting our “rooms” at a bungalow style hotel. Of course Rafa had to get the wine he bargained for in Guelmim, and brought it into the resturant. (He was lucky the police didn't get involved when he was making the negotiations with the man. We finished dinner at 11:30 pm and went to bed.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Control checkpoints (3) along the way. Two check points just outside Laàyoune. Bedouin nomads and their tents. Ship wrecks along the coast. Camels roaming around. Many sand dunes and filthy bungalows. Rafa getting a phone call in the middle of the desert. A long day but beautiful.
Got up 6:00am and cleaned up the truck. I also organized my suitcase and prepared for a day in the Sahara. We refilled spent water bottles from the tap water, but it is to be used for washing hands and face only. We departed at 10:00 noon and the odometer read 206155.
We ate lunch right after Boujdour on a very windy plateau and everyone ate in the truck/car. It was a very nice view but extremely windy. After lunch we proceeded to El' Argub and stopped for gas at the cross road of Dakhla/Nouådhhibou and a major check point.
I had to go to the bathroom so I asked to use the WC. Well I would have been better off just going outside because the WC was so filthy! We got to an area just 15km before El Argaub and looked off the road for a place to camp. We looked down one track and the Toyota got a little stuck and had to pull it out with a cable attached to the truck. While we were getting the Toyota out Rafa decided to take the Peugeot and really got it stuck in the sand so we had to pull it out with the Toyota! After all that we just decided to stay on the very windy plateau. It was 8:45pm and very dark and windy putting up camp. We ate dinner and I was dirty and tired so I went to bed at 9:45pm.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Going through control checkpoints without José's prepared manifest. Camels at a gas station we stopped at. Extreme winds and temperature shifts. The filthy toilet in the building being built at gas station. The windy, windy plateau. The windy and sand blowing camp. Sand in everything, but once again, just beautiful!
We departed the wind-swept plain at 8:15am, but I was up at 6:00am. I ate breakfast, made coffee, meditated and chanted/toned in a small valley where we were camped. What an incredible feeling of being in touch with my surroundings that was! It was very windy but just an incredible view. My stomach was being very bubbly and having gas as we were driving the most difficult part of the trail at the time.
I saw sand roses all around the area I was sitting that were just beautiful. Sand roses are one of nature’s quirks - not a rose at all but the mineral gypsum that crystallizes in a rosette growth pattern. After weathering, erosion and dissolution, calcium sulfate reenters the aquifer where it contributes to form new delicate and ephemeral roses. No one sand rose is like another. They are assemblages of bladed crystals that thin towards the end. Each blade ranges in size from less than one cm to 10 cm. All desert roses are very delicate. Moisture will quickly dissolve the gypsum but they will keep for a long time when protected against humidity.
The Peugeot got stuck several times and at one point it was so windy and the sand was blowing so hard I wore my bandana like a mask. The sand pounded into your skin like thousands of bees stinging you. During the trip we saw the Bedouin tribes men watering their camels. It was unbelievable how much they drank. What incredible scenery though!
We stopped at a gas station and filled all the big plastic (20 of them in all) containers with gas. This will be used for the next few days, as there are no gas stations in the heart of the Sahara.
At odometer reading 206931 it was 4:40pm when we arrived at the Moroccan/Mauritanian boarder. We got to the Mauritanian boarder checkpoint and the odometer read 206948. It was now 6:25pm and took us almost two hours to cross the boarder, go through the checkpoints and continue on our way. We entered the first checkpoint of Mauritania after only at 6:50pm. Then we moved the vehicles 500m and had to go through the police checkpoint, then 100m further and we went through customs. We were still waiting at the checkpoint at 8:00pm. We finished with the police at 8:20pm. It was dark by this time and Jose has to fill out six papers for the customs with flashlights. At 10:45pm we got finished with all of the formalities. Basically the checkpoint was a pile of rocks stacked into the shape of a building!
We started out on the track to Nouadhibou and there was a lot of sand in the beginning so we had to drive and find a way through to the track. There was no paved road from this point on. It was late, dark and a little scary at times. We saw some of the first huge sand dunes along the way and the landscape changed quickly and often. The track was very bumpy and dusty. A couple of times we had to divert from the “road” because of dunes being in our path. Fortunately the Peugeot didn't get stuck during this part.
We had to make many diversions along the way and at 11:40pm we made it to Nouadhibou. I am tiered, very dirty and hungry. We found a hotel and I got my own room, took a hot shower, and to sleep by 12:40am.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Seeing sand roses. Having to go to the bathroom last night and today at the most inopportune times! (You can’t just run to the WC, AND, you HAVE to have toilet paper with you at all times!). Meditating and toning in the Sahara. The military checkpoint at El' Argoub. Camels being watered. How fast the landscape changes. How the sand keeps changing color. Huge sand dunes.
Got up at 7:00am and took another long hot shower. I went with Jose to get the Peugeot fixed as the oil pan had a small leak. The mechanic had to pull the engine to do this so we are staying in town for the whole day and will get back on the road tomorrow. Jose and I ate some breakfast at a patisserie and changed money (240.00 = 1 €). I changed €50,00.
When we got back to the hotel Jose was going to take the truck tire and get it fixed. The rear outside passenger tire popped at the very end of the trail last night and needs to be repaired. It was fortunate that it happened just as we were finished with the trail so we didn’t have to stop and change it on the spot last night.
I stayed at the hotel and cleaned out my kitchen, two camera bags and organized them. Everything has dirt and sand in it. I also did laundry by washing my clothes in a big plastic dish that Catherine had. She also gave me some laundry soap. I re-organized my entire luggage, so I feel refreshed and ready to go again now.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY:
We left Nouadhibou at 8:00am. The truck got stuck three times today and we are traveling through the heart of the Sahara. Most of the day was spent traveling long stretches of desolate land for hours at a time without seeing much change of scenery. otherwise a very nice day.
FAVORITE MEMORIES OF THE DAY: Long hot day. Sandy. Digging the truck out. Hymas in the Sahara (tents). Beauty every direction. little stones I picked up waiting to reinflate the tires.
207244 at end of very long day 10:45am
Got up 5:30am made coffee, meditated went for a swim - great water!
9:20am depart Dafarid Beach
Water in desert!. Three big dunes we crossed. The wet sand. After the dunes a flat fast drive on shell sand. Sign for Nouakchott. Ate lunch in a small fishing village - starts with an M. odometer 207352 174km from Nouakchott.
MEMOIES; kids in village coming to the truck begging. Pink flamingos. Color of sand in the dunes changing. Luck has been with us today with the desert being a little wet and the tide being low enough to drive the beach. Got stuck bad trying to go from beach to road.
was sick today - a day in Nouakchott worked on replacing passport. Mine was "found"
Odometer 207496
Getting tires fixed left at 11:00am got to Rosa at 4:45pm odometer at 207774 it was 7:15pm before we got through Senegal side. 1km down the road and of course a national checkpoint. I rode in Toyota after lunch because I'm not feeling well at all.
Got to Ndioum at 10:45pm odometer at 207873
Left Ndioum at 11:10am feeling much better today. Arrived in Bakel at 9:45pm odometer at 208205. Ate dinner and went to bed at 11:15pm
MEMORIES; the colors, the people, things getting green. the water. The hotel. The lizards, cows, storks, children excited about getting pictures taken. The little boys we gave some lunch to, and I gave the bag of pistachios. Jose's expression when I gave away the pistachios!
Got up at 7:30am by 11:00am we were still waiting for the return of the Peugeot.
Odometer 208269 we are at the exit of Senegal 1:10pm next - MALI! 2:14pm we are through all controls for Maki boarder. We stoped to eat shortly after the boarder. 2:30pm - 4:00pm I took two group shots to make into one later. It took us 3.5 hours to go the last 108km on the bumpy road. Got into Reyes at 7:30pm odometer at 208363
The mussel in my back is killing me even when I take a breath and it hurts on this road!
MEMORIES; little boy who spoke English with me and walked across the street holding my hand. The heat and humidity today. Not having a photo at the boarder. Everyone had to pay 1,000AF so I pulled out a 10,000AF note to pay quickly so there would be no discussion - the Mali control seemed to be overlooking my lack of photo so I felt it best just to pay and get out of there. The bumpy road from the Senegal boarder to Reyes. Repacking bags for flight to Bamako at 8:30am Cooling water and Aquarious in front of the air conditioners. The electricity not being stable and going out completely Monday night and a short while Tuesday night. People waving as we drove along.
Odometer End: 208363 km
TOTAL KM 4433! NEXT - A FLIGHT TO BAMAKO (easier than a hot long train ride in over-crowded cars!
BAMAKO, MALI - HERE AT LAST!
Went to Air France office to change tickets to leave on 17th. Christina and I are in Bamako getting departure plans finalized. Had a little diarrhea this morning and my stomach is very bubbly. Went to BNP bank to get another cash advance on credit card to buy statue I saw at market yesterday. Started feeling more sick and broke out in sweats. Went back to hotel because the rest of the group arrived by train 15 hours later than they were suppose to. I got very sick and vomited several times to dry heaves. Called for a doctor at 5:00pm. I’m in bad shape. Christina got there as doctor did and was very helpful to me. I was in bed all night and next day. Doctor was very good - another time my French came in handy! I was sick in bed for three days though and it cost a lot of money to change tickets again. I never felt so sick in my life, and at one point I literally didn't think I was going to make it. I was scared.
I finally left Bamako and my wallet was lifted at the airport crush. A pick-pocket got it and I was not even able to pay the departure taxes! I told the boarder police my "story" so he just stamped my passport and I waited for my plane to take off. My trip goes through Paris to Madrid and I have a three hour layover in Paris. I arrived in Paris and felt like I was able to relax for the first time in a week. You can't imagine what the feeling was to be in a western country again. After I got to Madrid I received all my bags except one. I check on every flight from Paris for 12 hours but never received it. As it turned out, a baggage handler in Bamako tagged it all the way to Nashville. It arrived home a day before I did! I had to sleep in the airport in Madrid because I didn't have enough money for hotel etc. I was strip searched upon check-in for my flight to the US! The adventure still hasn't ended! - until I was up in the air on the way to the states.